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Inspiration

Tent-free wild camp on the North Yorkshire Coast

16/10/2017

3 Comments

 
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I looked at the weather report. Summer temperatures were forecast, with clear skies, no rain and only a bit of wind, despite it being mid-October. Sure, Hurricane Ophelia was on its way, but it wasn't due to arrive for at least 48 hours. How often do you get no rain and warm temperatures in October in Yorkshire? Never. So there was only one thing for it: a wild camp.

Having done it once before, on my own, I decided that this time I'd take a friend but would use a bivvy bag instead of a tent. After all, it was going to be dry. 

My lovely friend Sarah said yes, and then wanted to say no, but I dragged her along assuring her that we wouldn't get murdered or fall off a cliff. I didn't tell her that I was slightly apprehensive in case the hurricane did arrive early and we'd get blown into the sea. And having never bivvied before, this was a new experience for me too.....

Parking at the Robin Hood's Bay car park, we followed the Cleveland Way signs north towards Whitby. The sun was already beginning to set behind thinning cloud, casting a pinky-grey softness across the gorgeous coastline. There were plenty of places you could simply unroll a sleeping bag, but we wanted to head slightly off the path. Of course, you can't head far off the path or you will end up in the sea. Some of the cliffs are very unstable so it's important to find a patch of ground that isn't likely to crumble beneath you.

We managed to find a spot roughly a mile or so from Robin Hood's Bay.  An outcrop of land jutted away from the path out towards the sea and off to each side of it, were handy little ridges the perfect size for lying on (although it didn't allow for much rolling over in your sleep). Had we rolled off, we would have simply rolled down a gentle bank to a slightly boggy trough, not to our deaths. Always a good thing. But by lying just below the lip of earth, we were protected from the breeze and gave Sarah comfort that we were more hidden from view of potential murderers.

With no tent to pitch, we could immediately get to the important task of having a glass of wine, eating a hearty dinner of roasted nuts and talking shite. We'd brought a game along with us but couldn't quite muster up the energy to play.
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By 8pm it was pitch black and our wine was gone. We decided it was time to snuggle into our bivvies. Despite it being an exceptionally warm night for the time of year, it was still getting chilly. Storing our boots in a dry bag to keep any dew off them, we got into our beds fully clothed.

If you haven't bivvied before, it is in essence a waterproof cover for your sleeping bag. Depending on the size bivvy you get, you can fit your sleeping mat into your bivvy along with your sleeping bag. For a pillow, just use a rolled up coat or spare jumper. A hat is a good idea to keep your head warm or a buff that you can pull down over your eyes and top of nose so just your nostrils and mouth are free. Sleeping with socks on will keep your feet warm. Other tips: sleep with a head torch on or near you should you need to get up in the night. Also keep your mobile phone wrapped up somewhere warm to save the battery as it gets drained in the cold. 

Without a tent, you lie staring straight up at the stars. We were very lucky to have clear skies for most of it, without the typical accompanying plummeting temperatures. As we lay looking up at the Plough constellation, a shooting star whizzed overhead, so bright and close you could see the orange tail of burning dust glowing  brightly. Magical!

Just as we were getting ready to nod off, we noticed a light flashing on the rocks on the nearby cliff. Sarah immediately went into 'we're going to be murdered mode!" It was a bit odd and slightly scary, but I assumed it was probably just cockle pickers or someone down on the beach below. The thing to remember about wild camping is that most people are tucked up in their beds. They don't know you're there and won't be able to see you in the dark anyway. So there really isn't anything to worry about.

After watching the stars for hours, I finally nodded off only to be woken about an hour later to a loud screeching. My guess is a bird of prey had caught something. More star watching ensued as I tried to drift off again. I must have fallen asleep at last as I woke just as the very first glimmer of morning light was starting to leak some colour into the blackness. I watched as the lighthouse in the far distance flashed every five seconds and listened to the waves crash on the rocks far below, while seabirds began their morning chorus. What a wonderful way to wake up.

Sadly, we had to get back to York and real life, so after a quick cup of coffee, we packed up and were ready to go before the sun had even fully risen. Waving good morning to the curious sheep along our path, we made our way back to the car. We were tired, looking a bit scruffy but we'd had a brilliant microadventure. From door to door, we were gone 17 hours, yet we'd made wonderful memories.
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The ledge we slept on with views to the sea
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Early morning coffee
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Anyone can squeeze a bit of adventure into their life. And you should. Because when you look back on your life, you won't remember those evenings sitting on the sofa watching reality shows on TV. You will remember lying on a cliff watching the stars with a friend. 

If you are women - particularly if you are a women who has forgotten how to have adventures because you never have time for yourself - join the free Glamoraks group on Facebook. We will encourage you to step out of your comfort zone and into your potential. You just have to love walking and the outdoors and want to rediscover yourself again.

Here's a little video to inspire you.

Want to try wild camping with a bivvy? Here's what you need to pack

  • A sleeping bag
  • A bivvy bag
  • A sleep mat
  • A hat
  • A buff
  • Gloves
  • A headtorch
  • A small cook stove and kettle plus matches, tea/coffee/mug/spoon or just a thermos of ready-made tea/coffee
  • Snacks/wine (hardened hikers probably don't have wine but Glamoraks do)
  • Water
  • A warm jacket
  • A bag to store your boots in if likely to be damp
  • A pack to fit it all in

Want to meet other women to go wild camping with?Join Glamoraks.
3 Comments
Pang Kim Buay
18/10/2017 07:06:02 am

Hi Melissa,
I read your article in Women n Home magazine and felt that I have met my kindred spirit. Immediately I signed up to the facebook page. This June, I visited England for 15 days starting from Bournemouth, Lyme Regis, Cornwall, Bath, Cotswold, Liverpool, lake District, London n visited Rye n East grinstead as well. As I was travelling with non hiking friends, I could only do short walks such as to castlehead at lake keswick. We went to lake Buttermere but did not get to hike round the lake. Very happy to do a short walk in the south to view the Seven Sisters near Brighton. Wish that I could bring back all the hiking paths. By the way, I am from Singapore n it is a very small country. This September, I went to Bhutan n finally I bought hiking shoes. What a difference it made! I used to have knee problems n was worried about hiking the Tiger's Nest trail. Was extremely happy to have done it with the help of knee guards, a pair of hiking poles n hiking shoes. Now I am hooked to walking more challenging terrain n longer distance. Hope to walk with you when I visit UK again (my favorite country having studied in London for a year in 1983). Enjoyed reading your blog about walks.

Reply
Melissa link
2/11/2017 09:21:03 am

I am seriously jealous that you've managed to hike the Tiger's Nest Trail. Welcome to the Glamoraks club.

Reply
Rhianne
30/3/2023 10:22:33 am

This blog inspired me to go wild camping last weekend. Caught the train to Scarborough, started out on the Cleveland way at 5pm, hiked till about 7 then camped in a littled wooded bit on the edge of the cliff. My 3 man tent was really heavy so might look into a bivvy bag fpr next time!

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