GLAMORAKS
  • Home
  • Outdoor brands
  • About
    • Press
    • PRESS CENTRE
  • FAQ
  • Contact
  • Blog

Inspiration

Climbing Kilimanjaro – day 4 – Machame route: Baranco to Karanga Camp

7/3/2017

0 Comments

 
Picture
The Baranco Wall - the tiny dots are people
​Start height: 3900m
​End height: 3995m

For the first time since the walk began, I couldn’t face a morning coffee, probably a symptom of the altitude. But the nausea passed after a breakfast of porridge (again!), scrambled egg, toast and pancakes. By 7.30am we were ready to begin the big climb, but first we took in the incredible views that showed us how high up we had come.
 
We’d been warned about traffic on the Baranco wall as it’s a single file steep path up a rockface, with porters having to get by with their loads balancing on their heads. Thanks to our early start, we managed to get ahead of the bulk of the foot traffic and could simply concentrate on getting up.
 
The wall looks a lot scarier than it is – as long as you don’t look down. It was a day to put poles away and use your hands to scramble over the boulders. Looking for a place to put your feet and gripping a hand hold was actually fun and certainly took everyone’s minds off feeling ill. However, there is one particular part that will get the hearts of those afraid of heights thumping.
 
Called the Kissing Wall, you have to hug a rock and step across a gap with a good drop beneath it. A friendly guide waits with a hand outstretched to help you, but despite this, it still takes a deep breath and a leap of faith if you’re a vertigo sufferer like me. As I landed safely on the far side, it was though my body had to release the fear and adrenalin it had stored and I burst into inexplicable tears. I wasn’t the only one. Several of us all did the exact same. Altitude eh? It’s does funny things to your body and mind.
 
After two hours of boulder scrambling straight up, we got to the top. A fellow vertigo sufferer and I had a big hug at the top, before moving as far from the edge as we could. 
Picture
Don't look up!
Picture
Definitely don't look down!
Picture
Relief to be at the top
​Everyone amassed at the top, whooping that we’d conquered the wall and had a snack break and collective toilet visit behind the rocks. The mountain is littered with deposits from previous visits. You’ve always know when you’ve found a private toilet spot because of all the used tissue and piles of poo left behind. So you have a choice – privacy and revulsion, or a fresher spot where at least one person will be able to see you.  By day 4, privacy was far less important than the ability to lean back against a rock with your backpack still on to use it as support both squatting down and getting up.  The blokes had no idea how much easier they had it. Squatting multiple times a day with very little air to breathe is exhausting! Top tip: Do many squats as part of your training programme ladies.
 
Suitably lightened, we set off along a long path we could see stretching ahead through a valley. The rain set in. It was about this time that I realised my waterproof jacket wasn’t actually waterproof anymore.
 
We trudged on until our next campfire hove into view. Had we had wings, we could have flown across to it in minutes. Instead we had to traverse our way down the side of a steep valley that went on and on. Finally we crossed a stream on the valley floor and then had to head up the other side, which was just as steep, although mercifully shorter.  As we lumbered up, the porters hopped like mountain goats up and down the path to fetch stream water for us to drink. Remarkable chaps.
 
We arrived at Karanga camp, situated at 3995m. It was our last camp before base camp and walking up to the tents took supreme effort. The lack of oxygen could definitely be felt, with our wet clothes not adding to our joy.
 
A hearty lunch of chicken, fried potatoes and greens, washed down with milo helped and we all set about trying to dry our kit in the brief snatches of sunshone. It’s hard to describe the intensity of the sun when it does come out at high altitude. It feels like a flame licking your skin and so our kit strewn across rocks and pegged on lines did dry.
 
A handful of us headed out for another acclimatisation walk, a relentlessly uphill trek through alpine desert, giving us a taste of what was to come the next day. We headed back for dinner of cucumber soup, rice and vegetable sauce. Carb stodge is what you need. It’s warm and filling and certainly helped me have a better night’s sleep at last.
 
We went to bed with the lights of Moshi every further away and the looming peak ever closer. 
Picture
Go back to day 3
Read on about day 5

Join the Glamoraks community of women who love to walk, hike and have adventures. 
0 Comments



Leave a Reply.

    Categories

    All
    10 Mile Or More Walks
    2018
    2020
    7 Mile Walk
    Advice
    Amalfi
    Autumn
    Beginner Walks
    Cape Wrath Trail
    Centenary Way
    Challenge
    Cleveland Way
    Coastal Walking
    Coast To Coast
    Community
    Competition
    Escape London
    Esk Valley Walk
    #Febfriendship
    #findyou
    Footcare
    Friendship
    Girly Weekend
    Glamoraks Connect
    Glamorak Weekend
    Guest Blogging
    Happiness
    Hiking Supplies
    History
    Inspiration
    Italy
    Kilimanjaro
    Long Distance Path
    Malham
    Meet A Member
    Mental Health
    #MerryMonday
    Multi Day Walks
    Multi-day Walks
    New Platform
    Norfolk
    Northumberland
    Peak District
    Photography
    Rosedale
    #SayYesSept
    Scotland
    Seasonal
    Short Walks
    Snacks
    Solo Walking
    Solo Walks
    Summer Hiking
    Through Hiking
    Toilet Stuff
    Walking Buddies
    Walking With Kids
    West Highland Way
    Wild Camping
    Women Only
    York
    Yorkshire
    Yorkshire Dales
    Yorkshire Moors
    Yorkshire Three Peaks

    Archives

    January 2021
    August 2020
    April 2019
    March 2019
    November 2018
    July 2018
    May 2018
    April 2018
    March 2018
    February 2018
    January 2018
    December 2017
    November 2017
    October 2017
    September 2017
    August 2017
    July 2017
    June 2017
    May 2017
    April 2017
    March 2017
    February 2017
    January 2017
    September 2015
    August 2015

    RSS Feed

Get social. Follow us. 

Privacy policy
Terms of use.


Don't get left out.

Add your email to be alerted about any Glamorak events, walks, get togethers, challenges or news.

Success! Now check your email to confirm your subscription.

There was an error submitting your subscription. Please try again.

Powered by ConvertKit
  • Home
  • Outdoor brands
  • About
    • Press
    • PRESS CENTRE
  • FAQ
  • Contact
  • Blog