Walking the Herriot Way

The Herriot Way is a 52-mile circular walk through the beautiful Yorkshire Dales, England. It has a height gain of 2,350m with matching descent. The handy guide (shown above) suggests doing it over four days, which amounts to roughly 13 miles each day. You can do it in three days, which will involve a 19 mile, 20m and 11m day, or you can take even longer. It's certainly pretty enough to linger. The book gives suggestions for all itineraries. 

I used the book to help me find accommodation (which I suggest you pre-book in busy season as options are limited) and to read up on what you  should see on each leg. I did see people wild camping if that's your bag, although it's not strictly allowed. 

If you want to get the book and the digital maps that go with it, go here.
Although I recommend getting the book, I didn't end up using the digital maps, I opted to use my Ordnance Survey app. You can find the route here. 

Incidentally, as the route is circular, you can start anywhere and walk in either direction, but the book is written with a start in Aysgarth walking clockwise, going to Hawes, then Keld, then Reeth, and then back to Aysgarth,

With the practicalities out of the way, let me tell you what it was like...

Day 1: Aysgarth to Hawes (12 miles)

It had been a while since I did a multi-day, solo hike but sometimes I just like to get out in nature alone. Little did I know when I booked my accommodation for this particular walk that it would be the hottest weekend of the year, with heatwave warnings. ​I don't do well in heat, but I decided to start early and just do it. 

Day 1 is relatively flat and easy walking, mostly along the River Ure. Top tip: park in the Aysgarth Falls National Park carpark. It costs £20 for 7 days, which will be more than enough even if you get lost! From the carpark, you immediately take in the falls, before tackling the first of many very skinny gates. 

If you - like me - sport a middle-aged bust, belly and butt - fitting all three plus a backpack through a skinny gate takes some doing. By the end of day one, you will have perfected the technique of shuffling and hoiking anatomy parts, without falling off the stones on the far side or getting a fiercely sprung gate swinging back and smacking your backside as you step through. 

Anyway, you walk about a mile to get to Aysgarth to technically start the walk and then it's just sheer loveliness. Bubbling river, bleating sheep, bunnies hopping, bridges and stepping stones to cross, gorgeous tumbledown stone barns and only one field that had cows in it! I even passed a group of women wild swimming in the river. Given that it was well before 7am, it must have been parky.

Just as I began to get a sweat on, I got the chance to cool off by sitting on some stepping stones that make their way over the River Ure. It was gorgeous and I was very tempted to have a dip.

Shortly thereafter, I arrived in Askrigg, known as the location of the TV series All Creatures Great and Small based on the books by James Herriot. The pretty village has a rather magnificent tearoom called The Bake-Well, and it does indeed bake well. I had a delicious warm raspberry scone with raspberry jam and cream for breakfast (my food choices might explain the challenge of fitting through the skinny gates.....)

After feeling suitably revived, I headed out of the village and was delighted by a tiny art gallery and a neighbouring tiny library, two quirky cupboards on the side of the road serving as a surprising treasure trove. 

From there the route takes you through some shaded woods and the chance to see a second waterfall, Mill Gill Falls. It's a short diversion off the path but worth a quiet moment of tranquility and cool. 

After that it was a long stretch of field walking, including a run-in with an unfriendly farmer's dog near Sedbusk, and a series of 16 narrow fields with skinny gates. The book even advises how you can count them down. I lost track!

​You eventually arrive at the Simonstone Hotel, famed for the 'Top Gear Fracas'.(There's even a plaque at the hotel to commemorate the incident). Soon after that you arrive at Hardraw, famed for its falls, and third waterfall of the day. You have to pay £4 to go in and see the falls, but on a hot day, I can highly recommend it, dipping your toes in the icy water and lying on the cool rocks to chill out. ​

A final downhill but hot walk into Hawes where a myriad of shops and eateries await. In my case, a bed in my hotel where I could lie down and try to stop sweating!

Day 2: Hawes to Keld (12.5miles)

Knowing that the temperature was forecast to be 31C and the walk including a big climb up Great Shunner fell and a second small hill, I decided to forego my lovely cooked breakfast, and began walking at 4.30am. I am so glad I did. It was beautiful!

I got to watch the sun rise and the moon set, while walking through quiet dewy fields with sleeping sheep and birds just waking up. It was almost spiritual. 

Despite a gloriously cool start, by the time I'd climbed the foothills of Great Shunner Fell, which is the third highest peak in Yorkshire, I had a sweat on. I could also see the line of shade coming to an end as soon as the sun popped above the hill. 

But the walk itself up Great Shunner fell, while uphill, is not steep and has stunning views in all directions. There wasn't another soul in sight and as the elevation rose, the breeze picked up and kept the temperature manageable. It does have several false summits, and just when you think you've got to the top, you realise you have a way still to go. The view was, however, worth it once I got there.

The shelter was a wonderful spot for breakfast and I found another human! A lone wild camper who had spent the night up there. What a great place for a sleep out. ​

There's a long, hot downhill towards the tiny but very pretty hamlet of Thwaite. The path is very simple to follow, with paving slabs for a lot of it. Once in Thwaite, the temperature was as advertised. I popped into Kearton Country Hotel, whose tea room wasn't yet open, but they kindly sold me a cold drink and a bag of crisps to replenish the salts I'd sweated out. I sat in the shade on the bus stop bench, waving away the tiny white bus that came along at one point. It was lovely to watch village life unfold gently as I rested.

While I wanted to linger longer, the sun wasn't getting any lower in the sky and I new I had another hill to go. For a short while you follow the Pennine Way, before the paths diverge and my route headed steeply up Kidston Hill (almost 200 metres up in quite a short distance). By this time there was very little shade and I was very hot!

Then it was a simple enough walk down the other side and into Keld and the welcome shady embrace of a small tea room next to my accommodation for the night (Keld Lodge). Is there anything more joyful than a lovely meal, eaten in the shade, with your boots off, knowing you've done the hard work for the day and you still have the afternoon to relax?

I decided to put my swimmers on and walked about a mile or so to Kidston Force, another series of small waterfalls with plenty of ledges to sunbathe on. While I'd barely seen a soul on my walk, I found them all at this wild swimming spot! But it was lovely to take a dip and lie back and stare at the blue sky. 

I spent the evening chatting to some of the coast to coasters who were staying at the same lodge for the night. Keld is a crossing point for the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast, a walk I'd done ten years previously and I was reminded of the convivial comeraderie that exists between long distance walkers. 

Day 3: Keld to Reeth

The low route which I did

The alternate high route which I didn't do

I should pause here and say that on this day, you have a choice of two routes. The low route, which I did that runs along the river, and the high route that goes over the top of the fells. I wanted to do the high route as I'd done the low route previously on the Coast to Coast, but I was advised that there is zero shade on the top and given it was another hot day and my energy reserves were wholly depleted, I took the low road.

Now in theory this should have been a relatively easy day. as the route I picked is relatively flattish, and it was meant to be slightly cooler and there was a breeze. However, I had failed to take rehydrate supplements the night before and I knew the minute I woke up that I wasn't in peak physical condition. I was showing all the signs of heat exhaustion. 

Despite that, I got up early again and was walking by 6am, a ham and mustard sandwich and flapjack as my take away breakfast provided by the lodge. 

I retraced my steps past the waterfall I'd seen the day before, The walk from Keld to Muker and onto Gunnerside is honestly one of the most beautiful anywhere. Idyllic views down into the Swaledale valley and awash with wildlife: sheep, bunnies, deer, pheasant, all sorts of water fowl - it was like walking in the garden of Eden without another soul in sight. 

I ate my breakfast sitting on a rock with my feet in the cool water, enjoying the peace while trying to summon the energy to keep moving. Arriving at Gunnerside, I had hoped to find an open tea room, but no such luck and it was too early for the pub to open. Even the public toilets required a 20p piece to use them (top tip, carry 20ps with you on this walk as most of the toilets require them.)

So having not had a soul-reviving snack - which walkers know are the entire point of the walk - I had to climb up a steep hill to take in the view down into the valley. The views were lovely. The woods that came next were not.  Called Rowleth Woods, the book advises you to watch your step. I advise that you wear long trousers as it is nettle, bramble and thistle central, completely overgrown and more like a jungle than the English countryside. 

Completely scratched, nettled and hot, I emerged sweaty and grouchy. I then proceeded to miss the turn off and had to add an extra dog leg. By this point my sense of humour had failed me. I opted to follow a footpath sign to Reeth rather than follow the actual route. The footpath alongside the river was lovely. The road stretch less so. I picked up the designated path which by this point felt like a route march. Honestly, it would be a lovely walk but I just had no energy due to the aforementioned heat exhaustion. I ended up lying down on the grass near the swing bridge outside Reeth.

Arriving at my accommodation for the night - the Black Bull pub - I tucked into an enormous Sunday carvery (double thumbs up from me), followed by a delicious ice cream from the local ice cream shop. I sat on a bench in the sun and tried to revive my spirits. The thought of doing another 14 miles the next day did not fill me with cheer. 

However, discovering there was no bus between Reeth and Aysgarth, and having rehydrated, refuelled and slept, I was ready to take on the fourth and final day. 

Day 4: Reeth to Aysgarth (14 miles).

Despite the forecast being significantly cooler (but with the risk of thundershowers), I decided to set off early once again as the beauty and calm of the mornings made up for the lack of cooked breakfasts. 

I set off from Reeth heading towards Grinton and the climb up to the top of the fell started almost immediately. There is an option to take a short cut which would cut a mile and a half off the walk, but the book advised against trying to find the path if it was misty. And it was indeed misty. 

So I took the long route, hunkering down in some heather for my basic breakfast of bread, butter and jam. But there is something very grounding and joyful about sitting amongst heather in the mist eating simple fare. 

Once on top of High Harker hill, it's an easy walk along a wide track with stunning views (once the mist cleared) back over Swaledale and the route I walked the day before.

I only saw four people the entire walk until I reached Bolton Castle: two hikers setting off out of the hostel at Grinton Lodge, one mad fell runner, and one mountain biker. That was it. Not another soul. Just me and the birds and bees and sheep. Lovely. 

I listened to a podcast - Strangers on a Bench - as I went. Hearing the stories of different people, gave me much to think about as.I walked. And that's part of the reason I like walking solo every now and then. I get time to think and reflect, occasionally ugly cry from the beauty of it all, because I can and there's no-one to see!

After a long walk across the fell, I eventually reached Dent Houses (where the short cut would have arrived at). I have tried to research what these houses were and best guess is old miners' houses. I read one article where the author had spent a cold night in one of the buildings and had a spooky incident, with the sound of a wagon moving outside in the dead of night.. While the location is idyllic and the buildings pretty, I definitely got 'dead people vibes' and was too afraid to go look in the windows. I marched straight up the hill ahead of me instead!

From here it was an easy downhill towards Bolton Castle, an impressive looking ruin, made all the more impressive by having a tea room open on a Monday morning. I scoffed a Cornish pasty before doing the final stretch back towards Aysgarth falls.

​The last few miles always feels the longest and this particular stretch isn't very inspiring. Road walking, farms, fairly dull tracks until you get to the woods along side the falls. They are pretty and provided some cover from the rain as the heavens decided to open with just quarter of a mile to my car. 

And that was it. The Herriot Way done. 

It is a beautiful walk that is relatively easy, unless you're walking during a heat wave! I imagine if you walked it in winter or after weeks of rain, the route would feel very different and boggy in many places!

​There are enough little villages to stop at and get refreshments but accommodation is limited in some places so plan ahead. ​And be aware that it is not way marked so you need either the guide book or the OS Map App. 

If you're a woman who likes to walk - whether alone or with likeminded women, join Glamoraks. It's free and it may lead you to adventures you never knew you were capable of.