The Herriot Way is a 52-mile circular walk through the beautiful Yorkshire Dales, England. It has a height gain of 2,350m with matching descent. The handy guide (shown above) suggests doing it over four days, which amounts to roughly 13 miles each day. You can do it in three days, which will involve a 19 mile, 20m and 11m day, or you can take even longer. It's certainly pretty enough to linger. The book gives suggestions for all itineraries. 

I used the book to help me find accommodation (which I suggest you pre-book in busy season as options are limited) and to read up on what you  should see on each leg. I did see people wild camping if that's your bag, although it's not strictly allowed. 

If you want to get the book and the digital maps that go with it, go here.
Although I recommend getting the book, I didn't end up using the digital maps, I opted to use my Ordnance Survey app. You can find the route here. 

Incidentally, as the route is circular, you can start anywhere and walk in either direction, but the book is written with a start in Aysgarth walking clockwise, going to Hawes, then Keld, then Reeth, and then back to Aysgarth,

With the practicalities out of the way, let me tell you what it was like...

It had been a while since I did a multi-day, solo hike but sometimes I just like to get out in nature alone. Little did I know when I booked my accommodation for this particular walk that it would be the hottest weekend of the year, with heatwave warnings. ​I don't do well in heat, but I decided to start early and just do it. 

Day 1 is relatively flat and easy walking, mostly along the River Ure. Top tip: park in the Aysgarth Falls National Park carpark. It costs £20 for 7 days, which will be more than enough even if you get lost! From the carpark, you immediately take in the falls, before tackling the first of many very skinny gates. 

If you - like me - sport a middle-aged bust, belly and butt - fitting all three plus a backpack through a skinny gate takes some doing. By the end of day one, you will have perfected the technique of shuffling and hoiking anatomy parts, without falling off the stones on the far side or getting a fiercely sprung gate swinging back and smacking your backside as you step through. 

Anyway, you walk about a mile to get to Aysgarth to technically start the walk and then it's just sheer loveliness. Bubbling river, bleating sheep, bunnies hopping, bridges and stepping stones to cross, gorgeous tumbledown stone barns and only one field that had cows in it! I even passed a group of women wild swimming in the river. Given that it was well before 7am, it must have been parky.

Just as I began to get a sweat on, I got the chance to cool off by sitting on some stepping stones that make their way over the River Ure. It was gorgeous and I was very tempted to have a dip.

Shortly thereafter, I arrived in Askrigg, known as the location of the TV series All Creatures Great and Small based on the books by James Herriot. The pretty village has a rather magnificent tearoom called The Bake-Well, and it does indeed bake well. I had a delicious warm raspberry scone with raspberry jam and cream for breakfast (my food choices might explain the challenge of fitting through the skinny gates.....)

After feeling suitably revived, I headed out of the village and was delighted by a tiny art gallery and a neighbouring tiny library, two quirky cupboards on the side of the road serving as a surprising treasure trove. 

From there the route takes you through some shaded woods and the chance to see a second waterfall, Mill Gill Falls. It's a short diversion off the path but worth a quiet moment of tranquility and cool. 

​You eventually arrive at the Simonstone Hotel, famed for the 'Top Gear Fracas'.(There's even a plaque at the hotel to commemorate the incident). Soon after that you arrive at Hardraw, famed for its falls, and third waterfall of the day. You have to pay £4 to go in and see the falls, but on a hot day, I can highly recommend it, dipping your toes in the icy water and lying on the cool rocks to chill out. ​

A final downhill but hot walk into Hawes where a myriad of shops and eateries await. In my case, a bed in my hotel where I could lie down and try to stop sweating!

Knowing that the temperature was forecast to be 31C and the walk including a big climb up Great Shunner fell and a second small hill, I decided to forego my lovely cooked breakfast, and began walking at 4.30am. I am so glad I did. It was beautiful!

I got to watch the sun rise and the moon set, while walking through quiet dewy fields with sleeping sheep and birds just waking up. It was almost spiritual. 

Despite a gloriously cool start, by the time I'd climbed the foothills of Great Shunner Fell, which is the third highest peak in Yorkshire, I had a sweat on. I could also see the line of shade coming to an end as soon as the sun popped above the hill. 

But the walk itself up Great Shunner fell, while uphill, is not steep and has stunning views in all directions. There wasn't another soul in sight and as the elevation rose, the breeze picked up and kept the temperature manageable. It does have several false summits, and just when you think you've got to the top, you realise you have a way still to go. The view was, however, worth it once I got there.

The shelter was a wonderful spot for breakfast and I found another human! A lone wild camper who had spent the night up there. What a great place for a sleep out. ​

There's a long, hot downhill towards the tiny but very pretty hamlet of Thwaite. The path is very simple to follow, with paving slabs for a lot of it. Once in Thwaite, the temperature was as advertised. I popped into Kearton Country Hotel, whose tea room wasn't yet open, but they kindly sold me a cold drink and a bag of crisps to replenish the salts I'd sweated out. I sat in the shade on the bus stop bench, waving away the tiny white bus that came along at one point. It was lovely to watch village life unfold gently as I rested.

While I wanted to linger longer, the sun wasn't getting any lower in the sky and I new I had another hill to go. For a short while you follow the Pennine Way, before the paths diverge and my route headed steeply up Kidston Hill (almost 200 metres up in quite a short distance). By this time there was very little shade and I was very hot!

Then it was a simple enough walk down the other side and into Keld and the welcome shady embrace of a small tea room next to my accommodation for the night (Keld Lodge). Is there anything more joyful than a lovely meal, eaten in the shade, with your boots off, knowing you've done the hard work for the day and you still have the afternoon to relax?

I decided to put my swimmers on and walked about a mile or so to Kidston Force, another series of small waterfalls with plenty of ledges to sunbathe on. While I'd barely seen a soul on my walk, I found them all at this wild swimming spot! But it was lovely to take a dip and lie back and stare at the blue sky. 

I spent the evening chatting to some of the coast to coasters who were staying at the same lodge for the night. Keld is a crossing point for the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast, a walk I'd done ten years previously and I was reminded of the convivial comeraderie that exists between long distance walkers. 

I should pause here and say that on this day, you have a choice of two routes. The low route, which I did that runs along the river, and the high route that goes over the top of the fells. I wanted to do the high route as I'd done the low route previously on the Coast to Coast, but I was advised that there is zero shade on the top and given it was another hot day and my energy reserves were wholly depleted, I took the low road.

Now in theory this should have been a relatively easy day. as the route I picked is relatively flattish, and it was meant to be slightly cooler and there was a breeze. However, I had failed to take rehydrate supplements the night before and I knew the minute I woke up that I wasn't in peak physical condition. I was showing all the signs of heat exhaustion. 

Despite that, I got up early again and was walking by 6am, a ham and mustard sandwich and flapjack as my take away breakfast provided by the lodge. 

I retraced my steps past the waterfall I'd seen the day before, The walk from Keld to Muker and onto Gunnerside is honestly one of the most beautiful anywhere. Idyllic views down into the Swaledale valley and awash with wildlife: sheep, bunnies, deer, pheasant, all sorts of water fowl - it was like walking in the garden of Eden without another soul in sight. 

I ate my breakfast sitting on a rock with my feet in the cool water, enjoying the peace while trying to summon the energy to keep moving. Arriving at Gunnerside, I had hoped to find an open tea room, but no such luck and it was too early for the pub to open. Even the public toilets required a 20p piece to use them (top tip, carry 20ps with you on this walk as most of the toilets require them.)

So having not had a soul-reviving snack - which walkers know are the entire point of the walk - I had to climb up a steep hill to take in the view down into the valley. The views were lovely. The woods that came next were not.  Called Rowleth Woods, the book advises you to watch your step. I advise that you wear long trousers as it is nettle, bramble and thistle central, completely overgrown and more like a jungle than the English countryside. 

Completely scratched, nettled and hot, I emerged sweaty and grouchy. I then proceeded to miss the turn off and had to add an extra dog leg. By this point my sense of humour had failed me. I opted to follow a footpath sign to Reeth rather than follow the actual route. The footpath alongside the river was lovely. The road stretch less so. I picked up the designated path which by this point felt like a route march. Honestly, it would be a lovely walk but I just had no energy due to the aforementioned heat exhaustion. I ended up lying down on the grass near the swing bridge outside Reeth.

Arriving at my accommodation for the night - the Black Bull pub - I tucked into an enormous Sunday carvery (double thumbs up from me), followed by a delicious ice cream from the local ice cream shop. I sat on a bench in the sun and tried to revive my spirits. The thought of doing another 14 miles the next day did not fill me with cheer. 

However, discovering there was no bus between Reeth and Aysgarth, and having rehydrated, refuelled and slept, I was ready to take on the fourth and final day. 

Despite the forecast being significantly cooler (but with the risk of thundershowers), I decided to set off early once again as the beauty and calm of the mornings made up for the lack of cooked breakfasts. 

I set off from Reeth heading towards Grinton and the climb up to the top of the fell started almost immediately. There is an option to take a short cut which would cut a mile and a half off the walk, but the book advised against trying to find the path if it was misty. And it was indeed misty. 

So I took the long route, hunkering down in some heather for my basic breakfast of bread, butter and jam. But there is something very grounding and joyful about sitting amongst heather in the mist eating simple fare. 

Once on top of High Harker hill, it's an easy walk along a wide track with stunning views (once the mist cleared) back over Swaledale and the route I walked the day before.

I only saw four people the entire walk until I reached Bolton Castle: two hikers setting off out of the hostel at Grinton Lodge, one mad fell runner, and one mountain biker. That was it. Not another soul. Just me and the birds and bees and sheep. Lovely. 

I listened to a podcast - Strangers on a Bench - as I went. Hearing the stories of different people, gave me much to think about as.I walked. And that's part of the reason I like walking solo every now and then. I get time to think and reflect, occasionally ugly cry from the beauty of it all, because I can and there's no-one to see!

After a long walk across the fell, I eventually reached Dent Houses (where the short cut would have arrived at). I have tried to research what these houses were and best guess is old miners' houses. I read one article where the author had spent a cold night in one of the buildings and had a spooky incident, with the sound of a wagon moving outside in the dead of night.. While the location is idyllic and the buildings pretty, I definitely got 'dead people vibes' and was too afraid to go look in the windows. I marched straight up the hill ahead of me instead!

From here it was an easy downhill towards Bolton Castle, an impressive looking ruin, made all the more impressive by having a tea room open on a Monday morning. I scoffed a Cornish pasty before doing the final stretch back towards Aysgarth falls.

​The last few miles always feels the longest and this particular stretch isn't very inspiring. Road walking, farms, fairly dull tracks until you get to the woods along side the falls. They are pretty and provided some cover from the rain as the heavens decided to open with just quarter of a mile to my car. 

And that was it. The Herriot Way done. 

It is a beautiful walk that is relatively easy, unless you're walking during a heat wave! I imagine if you walked it in winter or after weeks of rain, the route would feel very different and boggy in many places!

​There are enough little villages to stop at and get refreshments but accommodation is limited in some places so plan ahead. ​And be aware that it is not way marked so you need either the guide book or the OS Map App. 

If you're a woman who likes to walk - whether alone or with likeminded women, join Glamoraks. It's free and it may lead you to adventures you never knew you were capable of.

It's easy on a rainy Sunday to choose to lie in bed rather than head outdoors. But a walk in the rain is one of life's most beautiful and simple pleasures - particularly if you do it alone. I guarantee that you will return home feeling better than before you went out. Here's how to make it magical:

Keep it simple
Put on a raincoat and a pair of boots. Make sure you're warm enough. But that's about all the preparation you need. No-one cares what you look like in the rain. And that is part of the joy of it. Return looking like.a drowned rat, soaked through with a smile on your face.

Choose a soundtrack
On rainy days, despite loving the sound of nature, I like to walk with gentle classical music playing in my headphones. The volume is soft enough for me to hear the beautiful sounds around me but the music adds a soundtrack that allows me to connect to my emotions more - like having a first glass of wine, everything just goes a little bit softer, gentler and more out of body. I recommend Ludovico Einaudi as the perfect musical score.

Take a closer look
Notice things. Don't just walk blindly. Take your time. Slow your pace. Look at the different shades of green, the contrast of textures underfoot, the symbiotic relationship between plants. Stop and watch the birds, bunnies, squirrels and slugs, all going about their business. 

Touch things.
There are so many amazing textures in a wood - from beautifully striated bark, to downy soft moss, to tickling grasses or prickly conker pods. Stop, take a moment and touch them. Notice what real feels like, not man made, not manufactured. Just beautiful items handcrafted by nature. Revel in how beautiful this planet is. 

Tune in to nature's changing seasons. Spot life's lessons in them
Depending on the time of year you walk, there will always be something that nature is busy doing. Even in the bleak winter months where trees are bare, you'll spot snowdrops fighting their way through. As it is mid summer, I saw the last of the elderflowers, a life lesson right there for any late bloomers amongst us. While the rest of the elderflowers have already fallen away, transforming into berries, those late bloomers now stand out shining brightly against the green. No-one's judging them for being late to the party, they're still just as beautiful having blossomed a bit later than the rest. Let that be a reminder to you that everyone fulfils their potential in their own time.

Or Conkers, those prickly playthings that always hark the impending sense of back to school. Not exactly attractive on the outside, but beneath their gnarly exterior, they are shiny and smooth and provide hours of fun to kids. Don't be too quick to judge. 

Honour the passing of time
Whether it's a 450 year old stately home harking back to a different era, or the magnificence of an oak tree that has clearly been standing tall for a very long time, it's worth reflecting that while seasons come and go, together they add up to years of history. I like to pause and think about that, not just the changes that might have happened since that Oak was a mere acorn, but all the changes that have made me, me. 

I have walked this particularly walk on so many occasions - with my kids when they were little, going swimming in the river, walking and chatting with friends, walking alone - crying -  during very challenging times in my life, power walking to train for an event, walking hand in hand with the person I love. I sometimes wonder if each version of myself left a memory shadow on these paths and they quietly whisper hello as I walk past. If I listen closely enough, I can hear them voice their memories.

Free your mind
Allow your mind to follow free flowing thoughts about everything and nothing. There is no right or wrong way to think. It's simply about being really present in this moment. My imagination comes alive. Instead of trees, I see a cathedral of leaves more spiritual than any church. I see a woodland throne and wonder who might sit on it when the woods come alive at night. I picture fairies dancing on moss. And I ponder why the patterns on the outside of tree bark run up and down while inside its concentric circles.

​When do we ever get time to think such frivolous thoughts? And yet this is how we thought as children, not about mortgages or jobs or relationships, just about the potential for magic all around us. 

Lift your face to the rain, close your eyes and feel the tiny caresses of each drop as it drums on your face. Embrace the wind as it tousles your hair and breathe in gulps of its freshness. This is what it feels like to be alive. To be happy. To be human. To be completely yourself. 

If you haven't taken yourself for a walk recently, do. You'll be so glad you did. 

If you're a woman who loves to walk and want company (on the days you're not taking a rainy walk in solitude), join Glamoraks. Get the app and make new friends.

This walk was at Beningbrough Hall, outside York, a National Trust property and all credit to the grounds team for constantly maintaining the paths and creating gorgeous wooden seating. 

1 August is Yorkshire Day. To celebrate the splendour of God's own county, here is a round up of some of the walks I'd recommend you do in Yorkshire. We are absolutely spoilt for choice with so many exceptional places to walk that this list is by no means conclusive. It doesn't include some of the more famous routes like the Cleveland Way, Dales Way, Wolds Way, the Pennine Way, Lady Anne's Way, the Ribble Way or the Herriot Way. Frankly, there are so many splendid walks to choose from, your biggest challenge is going to be finding the time to do them all. 

​So whether you're looking for a city walk, an urban stroll, a multi-day hike, a coastal caper or a good long stomp in the wilds of the moors or dales or Northern Peak, you are sorted. 

Close to York yet completely rural in feel, this is either a short 3-miler along the river, doing a circuit around Beningbrough Hall. Or make it longer and walk 8 miles from Beningbrough all the way along the river Ouse into York City Centre.  Details here. 

This is the first part of the centenary way, a multi-day walk running from York to Filey. But it's a great way to explore the surrounding York countryside starting right in the heart of town. Follow the river Foss out and either stop in Strensall or continue on to Sheriff Hutton. Details here.

Stamford Bridge is a village in the East Riding of Yorkshire. With a pretty centre and plenty of history, this is a flat, circular walk that takes in the river Derwent. Details here. 

Another walk along the Derwent, this is a pretty circular walk that takes in the ruins of Kirkham Priory and the delightful Howsham Mill. Details here. 

From Saltburn to Bridlington, the Yorkshire coast is a gem for walkers. One of the most popular stretches if you fancy making a weekend of it is to head from Whitby to Robin Hood's Bay and back again. It's roughly 6 or 7 miles each way, depending on where you start. But you can also start further north from Sandsend and end at Boggle Hole, just after Robin Hood's Bay, spend the night and head home the next day. Or try starting at Whitby, walk to Ravenscar, return and stay at Boggle Hole or Robin Hood's Bay and return the next day.  Details of these walks can be found here and here. 

Walk the final stage of the Cleveland Way as you leave the bustle of Scarborough behind, hugging the coast until you reach Filey Brigg. It's roughly 10 miles of gorgeous walking. Details here.

If you're a bird watcher, this is the walk for you. It takes in the incredible Flamborough Head, many beaches and RSPB bird watching platforms to get up to close to the myriad of sea birds that nest along this stretch of coast. Details here. 

This is just a short walk of no more than a couple of miles, depending where you choose to stop, but if you fancy a bit of an adventure, try heading out from Robin Hood's Bay and sleeping under the stars along the coastal path. Just be sure to leave no trace and don't sleep too close to the cliff edge. Details here.

A gorgeous valley and open moorland that can be done in a circuit of different lengths depending on your stamina. They take in the old mine buildings that dot the path. Details here. 

This is a stunning 7 mile walk in one of the North Yorkshire Moors most famous viewing spots. The Hole of Horcum is a giant punchbowl that includes walking along the moorland tops and in the valley, with a lovely pub midway. Details here. 

This a short 5 mile walk just north of Helmsley, that takes in the gentle agricultural side of the moors, but with some great views from the top of the ridge. Details here. 

This is a glorious 7-mile walk from Helmsley to Rievaulx and back again. It is actually stage 1 of the Cleveland way and is bookended with Helmsley castle and the ruins of Rievaulx Abbey. Plenty of lovely tea shops to choose from too. Details here. 

While not strictly allowed, if you are sensible, leave no trace and don't start fires, a wild camp on the moors is a lovely way to experience the peace and splendour they afford. Here are two wild camps (locations not revealed) to give a flavour of it. How far you want to walk to reach your camp spot is up to you.
Wild camp 1
​Wild camp 2

This 37-mile (60km) walk follows the River Esk from its source high on the North York Moors to the coast at Whitby. It's marked by a special way mark with a leaping salmon. The best thing about the walk is that it is served by the Esk Valley Railway line, which means you can leave your car at one end and be able to get back to it at the end. I did it in reverse, starting at Whitby, taking in Grosmont, Danny, Blakey and Glaisdale. It was a therapeutic, healing walk and one I'd highly recommend. Details here.

The coast to coast is a 192-mile path running from St Bees in Cumbria through to Robin Hood's Bay in Yorkshire. The Yorkshire section starts once you cross the Pennines after leaving Kirkby Stephen and takes in some magnificent stretches of the Yorkshire Dales, North Yorks Moors and the Yorkshire Coast. You don't have to do the whole thing - just pick one or two of these stretches for a day or two of gorgeous walking. Note: the bit from Richmond to Danby Wiske and Danby Wiske to Ingleby Arncliff are probably the least exciting. I've included them in case you'd like to do the full Yorkshire stretch but I wouldn't pick them for a day walk.
​
Kirkby Stephen to Keld 
Keld to Reeth
Reeth to Richmond
Richmond to Danby Wiske
Danby Wiske to Ingley Arncliff
Ingleby Arncliff to Blakey Ridge
Blakey Ridge to Grosmont
Grosmont to Robin Hood's Bay

This is a glorious 52-mile circular walk that is typically done over four days taking in Aysgarth, Hawes, Keld and Reeth. You can start at any point and walk clockwise or anti-clockwise, but whoever way you go, it has gorgeous scenery and multiple waterfalls to take in. Details here.

Malham is a jaw-droppingly beautiful bit of the Yorkshire Dales with a number of walks you can do regardless of your fitness. A gentle stroll to see Gordale Scar and Janet's Foss; something a bit more taxing as you climb to the top of Malham Cove to see the stone pavement of clints and grikes; or even further up to Malham Tarn. Details here. 

Many people take on the famous Yorkshire Three Peaks of Pen y Ghent, Whernside and Ingleborough as a 12 hour challenge. But you don't have to charge your way around. You can pick them off one at a time or two them over two days. This is the scenery that will take your breath away. Details here. 

A new boundary walk that takes runs the whole way around the Peak District opened in 2017. The northerly bit of the Peak is in Yorkshire and includes more spectacular moorland walking. This section runs from Greenfield to Marsden. And there's a very welcome pub at the end. Details here.

As I said, there are so many walks to be done in Yorkshire. I know that this is just a tiny sample - but they are ones which I have personally walked and written up. I'd love to hear about yours, so please do share any Yorkshire walks you've written about in the comments below. 

If you are a woman who loves to walk, please join Glamoraks, an online community that helps women find other women to go walking and adventuring with together. You can also join the Facebook group here. Both are free. 

Start point: YO30 1DB
Distance: 3 miles circular or 8 miles linear (ending in York)
Terrain: Paths, some overgrown in summer, very muddy in winter

Last week I had the privilege of taking a Sunday Telegraph journalist and photographer for a walk around Beningbrough Hall. It always amazes me how many people in York aren't aware of what a gem we have right on our doorstep. 

Beningbrough Hall is a National Trust property. Surrounding the hall is a stunning 3-mile loop walk and as it's outside the grounds of the Hall itself, you don't need to pay to walk it. You can park in Newton-on-Ouse and follow the footpath signs as you head toward the river. Or you can park at the opposite entrance at a small carpark that asks for a donation to the Air Ambulance. Option three is to park outside Home Farm, a lovely farm shop and cafe, as long as you return as a customer after your walk (an excellent idea by the way as it have fabulous cakes.)

Simply follow the path along the river, getting glimpses of the Hall as you go. Roughly half-way along the loop you will find a secret beach and wild swimming spot. On hot sunny days, it is an idyllic setting. You can even catch a ferry on the weekends over to Nun Monkton, where after a short stroll, you will find a pub - The Alice Hawthorn. 

You continue the loop, depending where you started from and then follow the track around the back of the estate, through woods for a section before ending up back where you started. You can't really get lost and you can vary the loop direction. There is also a pub - The Dawnay Arms - in Newton-on-Ouse if you started out there and want to have a drink in a beer garden that goes down to the river.

The route:

Follow the footpath that runs alongside the woods, heading towards the river. When you reach a gate, go through it and instead of following the path ahead (the loop walk mentioned above),  turn to your left. There will be an indistinct footpath that leads to a raised path alongside the river. Now you simply follow that, keeping the river on your right all the way. You will go past a row of houses at the village of Beningbrough and a few more as you near Overton. Poppleton will start to be seen on the opposite bank. As you go underneath the railway bridge, you will have a bit of an overgrown path to navigate before crossing a small footbridge. Just after the bridge, your path will intercept the cycle path (route 65). Turn right onto the cycle path and follow it.

Here's the piece that the Sunday Telegraph did on the walk:

Distance: 9-10 miles
Difficulty: Easy to moderate (it's all flat but if you aren't used to walking 10 miles, may find it tiring!)
Type of terrain: dirt paths, grassy paths, pavement, some mud
Starting point: Stamford Bridge public car park, Viking Road, YO41 1AG 

Before I get onto the walk, I want to give you a short history lesson. Stick with me. It really is interesting.

If I said the words: Stamford Bridge to the average English person, they would automatically assume I was referring to the Chelsea Football Club Stadium. But another Stamford Bridge played a far greater role in the future of Britain (and it involves slightly fewer overpaid prima donnas - but only just).

Stamford Bridge is a village five miles to the East of York, in the East Riding of Yorkshire. But this small village was the site of a battle that genuinely changed the entire future of England.  Yes really.  I'm not a historian but here's my understanding of what happened back in September 1066.

King Harold Godwinson had taken over the throne after Edward the Confessor died but there was a bit of a family argument about whether that was the right choice. His brother Tostig felt he should have got the job. Harold was having none of it, took away Tostig's title of Earl of Northumbria and had him exiled. That annoyed Tostig so he teemed up with the King of Norway, Harald Hardrada, who felt he too had a right to wear the English crown. When Harold (the English, not Harald the Norwegian) heard about this, he marched his army up from the South. 185 miles in just 4 days. Now anyone who has done a multi-day hike knows that is pretty impressive. I did the Coast to Coast which is 192 miles, in two weeks! And my feet hurt doing that!

Anyway, Harold and his foot-sore troops arrived at the place that is now Stamford Bridge. King Harold himself went over to Tostig and Harald and said that he was willing to give Tostig his title back. When he was asked what he'd give to the Norwegian king, Harold suggested "Seven feet of English ground, as he is taller than other men." That didn't go down too well. And so the fighting kicked off. By all accounts a single Norse giant impeded the path of the oncoming English soldiers, waving a scary looking Dane axe around. But then some plucky English chap got in a barrel and drifted under a bridge and poked a spear up into the Norseman (one can only guess where) which ended his axe wielding career and indeed life. The Englishmen went on to win the battle.

Just when Harold thought he could haul out the compeed plasters, and have a nice pork pie and a pint, he heard that some upstart French chap called William was heading over from Normandy. So poor Harold and his jolly tired soldiers had to walk all the way back down to Hastings in East Sussex and face another battle, averaging about 27 miles a day. They probably didn't have fancy walking shoes either. Frankly, despite picking up some reinforcements en route,  they had had quite enough walking and fighting - understandably. And they lost that battle. William got the middle name The and last name Conqueror, and he went on to change the future of British history, with the year 1066 forever etched in school children's collective psyches.

So that is how a little village in Yorkshire came to play such a big part in English history. ​You're welcome.

Today you can enjoy a lovely 10-mile circular walk from Stamford Bridge without fear of being attacked by a viking. The walk starts in the free village car park just over the stone road bridge. There are many different routes you can take but I will describe the walk we did. 

Distance: 11.8 miles (although I missed the last 0.8 as a friend picked me up for a coffee...)
Type: Urban to rural
Terrain: Riverside path, fields, some roads and some muddy bits

I am lucky enough to live just outside the York City Walls. The downside about living in the city though, is that I typically have to get in my car to drive to some countryside for my walks. But I recently discovered that the Centenary Way starts right outside the York Minster, a mere five minutes walk from my house.

The Centenary Way was created to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the York County Council and was opened in 1989. It runs from York to Filey on the North Yorkshire coast, spanning 83 miles. Besides the Minster and Sheriff Hutton Castle, both of which are in this first part of the walk, it also includes the Howardian Hills and Yorkshire Wolds, letting you see Castle Howard and the abandoned medieval village of Wharram Percy. It links up the Foss Way, Yorkshire Wolds Way and Cleveland Way. 

I confess that I was unsure of what to expect. Some of York's residential areas aren't exactly uplifting for the soul. I didn't really fancy an urban walk, but I headed out from the Minster after being pelted by a snow storm. The forecast was strong winds and they weren't wrong.  The walk around the Minster is one I know well, starting from the Southern transept, heading down Chapter House Street and the haunted Treasurers House, before going along Ogleforth (so named as Vikings found owls living along a river there - I've been told - ogle meaning owl.) You pass beneath Monk Bar, one of the ancient city gates, cross busy Lord Mayor's Walk and then head down a little lane past a not very attractive car park. This is what I feared.

But that experience was short lived. I quickly found myself walking through the Groves, a residential area with a pretty snickelway running through it. Before long I popped out on Huntingdon road and got to walk along the Foss River. 

I am amazed at how quickly you felt as though you weren't in a city anymore. Yes there were houses lining each side of the path, the Foss can be a bit grotty in places and the Nestle Factory is hardly a rural idyll (although the chocolate fragrance wafting overhead was lovely), but it was a peaceful, tree-lined river walk. 

All the way from New Earswick to the outer ring road, the river was lined with houses that were lucky enough to have gardens with water frontage. Again, I wasn't aware that all these properties existed. There was so much green space and I was still in the city! 

After walking along the river for a good distance, I finally ducked under the outer ring road where it immediately felt more rural despite walking past Earswick, another suburban village. The wild weather kept coming - intense sun one minute, rain, sleet and bitter winds the next. I eventually diverted from the river briefly to head through Haxby and along Towthorpe Road. This was probably the least fun bit as it meant walking on the grass verge alongside the road, with cars rushing by. 

But it didn't last long and I headed off across fields once again in the direction of Strensall. I picked up the river again until at last I reached Strensall bridge. This would be a good place to stop if you didn't want too long a walk (about 8 or 9 miles). And there is a pub - The Ship Inn - in Strensall should you need some lunch. And there is a bus that runs back into York right past the pub.

However, I kept on going, following the river for another good long stretch. It's here you can tell that it used to be a canal and according to the guide, also has some Roman remains somewhere along the way. I was too busy dodging the mud to notice, as the path had suddenly turned into a bog.

As I reached an old metal footbridge, I had to veer away from the river, through a wood, across and field and past a farm. By now my feet were starting to hurt. I headed into the pretty village of West Illing and saw that there was just 3/4 of a mile left to Sheriff Hutton. However, I'd arranged for a friend to meet me for a coffee so she scooped me up and we drove that last bit. When a latte and chocolate brownie call, walks end abruptly!

There is a lovely coffee shop in Sheriff Hutton, so it's worth walking there for a spot of lunch or afternoon tea. There is a bus that runs from the village back to York, but it's infrequent so you may need to get a friend to pick you up or call a taxi.

All in all it was a lovely, a very surprising walk that took me from a busy city centre to peaceful, rural countryside, right from my doorstep. If you haven't explored it yet, give it a try. 

You can download the entire Centenary Way route for free here

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