The Herriot Way is a 52-mile circular walk through the beautiful Yorkshire Dales, England. It has a height gain of 2,350m with matching descent. The handy guide (shown above) suggests doing it over four days, which amounts to roughly 13 miles each day. You can do it in three days, which will involve a 19 mile, 20m and 11m day, or you can take even longer. It's certainly pretty enough to linger. The book gives suggestions for all itineraries. 

I used the book to help me find accommodation (which I suggest you pre-book in busy season as options are limited) and to read up on what you  should see on each leg. I did see people wild camping if that's your bag, although it's not strictly allowed. 

If you want to get the book and the digital maps that go with it, go here.
Although I recommend getting the book, I didn't end up using the digital maps, I opted to use my Ordnance Survey app. You can find the route here. 

Incidentally, as the route is circular, you can start anywhere and walk in either direction, but the book is written with a start in Aysgarth walking clockwise, going to Hawes, then Keld, then Reeth, and then back to Aysgarth,

With the practicalities out of the way, let me tell you what it was like...

It had been a while since I did a multi-day, solo hike but sometimes I just like to get out in nature alone. Little did I know when I booked my accommodation for this particular walk that it would be the hottest weekend of the year, with heatwave warnings. ​I don't do well in heat, but I decided to start early and just do it. 

Day 1 is relatively flat and easy walking, mostly along the River Ure. Top tip: park in the Aysgarth Falls National Park carpark. It costs £20 for 7 days, which will be more than enough even if you get lost! From the carpark, you immediately take in the falls, before tackling the first of many very skinny gates. 

If you - like me - sport a middle-aged bust, belly and butt - fitting all three plus a backpack through a skinny gate takes some doing. By the end of day one, you will have perfected the technique of shuffling and hoiking anatomy parts, without falling off the stones on the far side or getting a fiercely sprung gate swinging back and smacking your backside as you step through. 

Anyway, you walk about a mile to get to Aysgarth to technically start the walk and then it's just sheer loveliness. Bubbling river, bleating sheep, bunnies hopping, bridges and stepping stones to cross, gorgeous tumbledown stone barns and only one field that had cows in it! I even passed a group of women wild swimming in the river. Given that it was well before 7am, it must have been parky.

Just as I began to get a sweat on, I got the chance to cool off by sitting on some stepping stones that make their way over the River Ure. It was gorgeous and I was very tempted to have a dip.

Shortly thereafter, I arrived in Askrigg, known as the location of the TV series All Creatures Great and Small based on the books by James Herriot. The pretty village has a rather magnificent tearoom called The Bake-Well, and it does indeed bake well. I had a delicious warm raspberry scone with raspberry jam and cream for breakfast (my food choices might explain the challenge of fitting through the skinny gates.....)

After feeling suitably revived, I headed out of the village and was delighted by a tiny art gallery and a neighbouring tiny library, two quirky cupboards on the side of the road serving as a surprising treasure trove. 

From there the route takes you through some shaded woods and the chance to see a second waterfall, Mill Gill Falls. It's a short diversion off the path but worth a quiet moment of tranquility and cool. 

​You eventually arrive at the Simonstone Hotel, famed for the 'Top Gear Fracas'.(There's even a plaque at the hotel to commemorate the incident). Soon after that you arrive at Hardraw, famed for its falls, and third waterfall of the day. You have to pay £4 to go in and see the falls, but on a hot day, I can highly recommend it, dipping your toes in the icy water and lying on the cool rocks to chill out. ​

A final downhill but hot walk into Hawes where a myriad of shops and eateries await. In my case, a bed in my hotel where I could lie down and try to stop sweating!

Knowing that the temperature was forecast to be 31C and the walk including a big climb up Great Shunner fell and a second small hill, I decided to forego my lovely cooked breakfast, and began walking at 4.30am. I am so glad I did. It was beautiful!

I got to watch the sun rise and the moon set, while walking through quiet dewy fields with sleeping sheep and birds just waking up. It was almost spiritual. 

Despite a gloriously cool start, by the time I'd climbed the foothills of Great Shunner Fell, which is the third highest peak in Yorkshire, I had a sweat on. I could also see the line of shade coming to an end as soon as the sun popped above the hill. 

But the walk itself up Great Shunner fell, while uphill, is not steep and has stunning views in all directions. There wasn't another soul in sight and as the elevation rose, the breeze picked up and kept the temperature manageable. It does have several false summits, and just when you think you've got to the top, you realise you have a way still to go. The view was, however, worth it once I got there.

The shelter was a wonderful spot for breakfast and I found another human! A lone wild camper who had spent the night up there. What a great place for a sleep out. ​

There's a long, hot downhill towards the tiny but very pretty hamlet of Thwaite. The path is very simple to follow, with paving slabs for a lot of it. Once in Thwaite, the temperature was as advertised. I popped into Kearton Country Hotel, whose tea room wasn't yet open, but they kindly sold me a cold drink and a bag of crisps to replenish the salts I'd sweated out. I sat in the shade on the bus stop bench, waving away the tiny white bus that came along at one point. It was lovely to watch village life unfold gently as I rested.

While I wanted to linger longer, the sun wasn't getting any lower in the sky and I new I had another hill to go. For a short while you follow the Pennine Way, before the paths diverge and my route headed steeply up Kidston Hill (almost 200 metres up in quite a short distance). By this time there was very little shade and I was very hot!

Then it was a simple enough walk down the other side and into Keld and the welcome shady embrace of a small tea room next to my accommodation for the night (Keld Lodge). Is there anything more joyful than a lovely meal, eaten in the shade, with your boots off, knowing you've done the hard work for the day and you still have the afternoon to relax?

I decided to put my swimmers on and walked about a mile or so to Kidston Force, another series of small waterfalls with plenty of ledges to sunbathe on. While I'd barely seen a soul on my walk, I found them all at this wild swimming spot! But it was lovely to take a dip and lie back and stare at the blue sky. 

I spent the evening chatting to some of the coast to coasters who were staying at the same lodge for the night. Keld is a crossing point for the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast, a walk I'd done ten years previously and I was reminded of the convivial comeraderie that exists between long distance walkers. 

I should pause here and say that on this day, you have a choice of two routes. The low route, which I did that runs along the river, and the high route that goes over the top of the fells. I wanted to do the high route as I'd done the low route previously on the Coast to Coast, but I was advised that there is zero shade on the top and given it was another hot day and my energy reserves were wholly depleted, I took the low road.

Now in theory this should have been a relatively easy day. as the route I picked is relatively flattish, and it was meant to be slightly cooler and there was a breeze. However, I had failed to take rehydrate supplements the night before and I knew the minute I woke up that I wasn't in peak physical condition. I was showing all the signs of heat exhaustion. 

Despite that, I got up early again and was walking by 6am, a ham and mustard sandwich and flapjack as my take away breakfast provided by the lodge. 

I retraced my steps past the waterfall I'd seen the day before, The walk from Keld to Muker and onto Gunnerside is honestly one of the most beautiful anywhere. Idyllic views down into the Swaledale valley and awash with wildlife: sheep, bunnies, deer, pheasant, all sorts of water fowl - it was like walking in the garden of Eden without another soul in sight. 

I ate my breakfast sitting on a rock with my feet in the cool water, enjoying the peace while trying to summon the energy to keep moving. Arriving at Gunnerside, I had hoped to find an open tea room, but no such luck and it was too early for the pub to open. Even the public toilets required a 20p piece to use them (top tip, carry 20ps with you on this walk as most of the toilets require them.)

So having not had a soul-reviving snack - which walkers know are the entire point of the walk - I had to climb up a steep hill to take in the view down into the valley. The views were lovely. The woods that came next were not.  Called Rowleth Woods, the book advises you to watch your step. I advise that you wear long trousers as it is nettle, bramble and thistle central, completely overgrown and more like a jungle than the English countryside. 

Completely scratched, nettled and hot, I emerged sweaty and grouchy. I then proceeded to miss the turn off and had to add an extra dog leg. By this point my sense of humour had failed me. I opted to follow a footpath sign to Reeth rather than follow the actual route. The footpath alongside the river was lovely. The road stretch less so. I picked up the designated path which by this point felt like a route march. Honestly, it would be a lovely walk but I just had no energy due to the aforementioned heat exhaustion. I ended up lying down on the grass near the swing bridge outside Reeth.

Arriving at my accommodation for the night - the Black Bull pub - I tucked into an enormous Sunday carvery (double thumbs up from me), followed by a delicious ice cream from the local ice cream shop. I sat on a bench in the sun and tried to revive my spirits. The thought of doing another 14 miles the next day did not fill me with cheer. 

However, discovering there was no bus between Reeth and Aysgarth, and having rehydrated, refuelled and slept, I was ready to take on the fourth and final day. 

Despite the forecast being significantly cooler (but with the risk of thundershowers), I decided to set off early once again as the beauty and calm of the mornings made up for the lack of cooked breakfasts. 

I set off from Reeth heading towards Grinton and the climb up to the top of the fell started almost immediately. There is an option to take a short cut which would cut a mile and a half off the walk, but the book advised against trying to find the path if it was misty. And it was indeed misty. 

So I took the long route, hunkering down in some heather for my basic breakfast of bread, butter and jam. But there is something very grounding and joyful about sitting amongst heather in the mist eating simple fare. 

Once on top of High Harker hill, it's an easy walk along a wide track with stunning views (once the mist cleared) back over Swaledale and the route I walked the day before.

I only saw four people the entire walk until I reached Bolton Castle: two hikers setting off out of the hostel at Grinton Lodge, one mad fell runner, and one mountain biker. That was it. Not another soul. Just me and the birds and bees and sheep. Lovely. 

I listened to a podcast - Strangers on a Bench - as I went. Hearing the stories of different people, gave me much to think about as.I walked. And that's part of the reason I like walking solo every now and then. I get time to think and reflect, occasionally ugly cry from the beauty of it all, because I can and there's no-one to see!

After a long walk across the fell, I eventually reached Dent Houses (where the short cut would have arrived at). I have tried to research what these houses were and best guess is old miners' houses. I read one article where the author had spent a cold night in one of the buildings and had a spooky incident, with the sound of a wagon moving outside in the dead of night.. While the location is idyllic and the buildings pretty, I definitely got 'dead people vibes' and was too afraid to go look in the windows. I marched straight up the hill ahead of me instead!

From here it was an easy downhill towards Bolton Castle, an impressive looking ruin, made all the more impressive by having a tea room open on a Monday morning. I scoffed a Cornish pasty before doing the final stretch back towards Aysgarth falls.

​The last few miles always feels the longest and this particular stretch isn't very inspiring. Road walking, farms, fairly dull tracks until you get to the woods along side the falls. They are pretty and provided some cover from the rain as the heavens decided to open with just quarter of a mile to my car. 

And that was it. The Herriot Way done. 

It is a beautiful walk that is relatively easy, unless you're walking during a heat wave! I imagine if you walked it in winter or after weeks of rain, the route would feel very different and boggy in many places!

​There are enough little villages to stop at and get refreshments but accommodation is limited in some places so plan ahead. ​And be aware that it is not way marked so you need either the guide book or the OS Map App. 

If you're a woman who likes to walk - whether alone or with likeminded women, join Glamoraks. It's free and it may lead you to adventures you never knew you were capable of.

In late August/early September 2020 I was meant to do the Tour du Mont Blanc. But the global pandemic had other plans. With time off work and in need of an adventure, I decided to walk the Northumberland Coast Path solo, carrying what I needed on my back. I didn't fancy camping and lugging all that kit with me, opting for any available accommodation. This proved tricky as accommodation was in very short supply and so I couldn't follow the itinerary suggested by the official route. 

The Northumberland Coastal path runs from Cresswell in the south up to Berwick-on-Tweed in the north, a total of 62 miles or 100km of coastal walking, littered with castles and history. If you've never been to Northumberland. then you need to add it to your list of places to go. It is jaw-droppingly beautiful with plenty of little coastal villages to explore or take refuge in when in need of tea/cake/chips/wine. And given some of the weather I faced, refuge was certainly needed at times.

I decided to tag a bit onto the beginning, by starting at Newbiggin-on-Sea to enjoy the newly created stretch of the England Coast Path route.

Getting there:
The East Coast Main line runs up and down from London to Edinburgh. The closest train stop to Cresswell or Newbiggin is Morpeth. From there I took a taxi to Newbiggin, which meant I started walking at about 11am. You can catch a return train home from Berwick-on-Tweed. 

Frankly I'm not sure why I decided to add the extra miles on as Newbiggin-on-Sea isn't going to win any prizes in a beauty contest. It was a grey day and a bit of a plod to start along an urban seafront and past a not very attractive power plant. But the path was clearly signposted with new England Coast path signs and I was pleased to be walking a stretch of this newly created route. Once I reached Cresswell and officially picked up the Northumberland Coast path, the scenery improve massively. The path stretched for miles along stunning Druridge Bay, with gorgeous sand dunes and a nature reserve just inland. Approaching Amble, you will see Coquet Island out to sea, an RSPB nature reserve, housing a monastic cell and medieval tower. I like little bits of history along the way.

​I arrived at Amble with sore feet unused to walking 14 miles, a lot of which was on sand. Amble has a busy quay with little shops and spots to get something to eat. Sadly, the only place available for me to stay - the Amble Inn - was another mile out of town. I was very pleased to have my comfy bed and tasty food when I got there. 

I had a lot of miles to cover this day and the forecast was WINDY! But it promised two spectacular castles and stunning scenery so I was up for the challenge. After a hearty breakfast, I headed back into the heart of Amble and out the other side, walking alongside Warkworth harbour before climbing the hill into Warkworth. Atop the hill sits Warkworth castle, one of the few Northumbrian castles I hadn't previously visited. I didn't have time to go in but gave it a wave before walking through the very pretty village of Warkworth with its even prettier bridge, which spans River Coquet. From there it was miles of gorgeous sand dunes (the path itself running behind the dunes so wasn't heavy going underfoot). I had to play dodgems with flying golf balls as links courses dot the path. There are handy bells to ring to let golfers know that you're passing through. 

I then reached the River Aln and the lovely village of Almouth. I stopped for a bite of lunch at the Alnmouth Village Golf Club (the oldest links golf club in England) where I was the youngest person by about 50 years. But they did a good sandwich and they had a loo and everyone wanted to know where I was walking to. From there I had to climb a hill above the golf course, and kept following the coastal path until it dropped down to the sea. The walking got tough for a while as it was a pebbly beach, which hurts the ankles but the scenery made up for it. 

The wind picked up as I headed along a long cycle path towards Boulmer and then even windier as I walked along the path overlooking wild seas crashing on rocks as I headed for Craster, famous for its smoked kippers. By the time I reached the Jolly Fisherman Pub, I was very ready to rest my feet. By chance I bumped into friends there so had a welcome catch up in the sun before tackling the last 4 miles.

The walk from Craster to Dunstanburgh Castle is one of my absolute favourites and if you're ever after a short day walk, add this one to your list. I however, had to walk past the castle, making sure I took in the backwards facing views and did my final push to Embleton. I stayed at The Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel, but frankly I could have been staying under a hedge. I simply wanted to put my feet up after a very long, windy but utterly gorgeous 18 odd miles. 

While a significantly shorter day, this day was still quite hard going for two reasons. 1) The weather 2) a long stretch of roadside plodding. 

It starts with some of the most stunning scenery of the entire walk along Embleton Bay, with views back over Dunstanburgh Castle. Little seaside cottages dot the dunes and I would very much like to have one of those.  The route then followed another links golf course running next to Beadnell Bay. The wind had again picked up at this point and by the time I hit Beadnell, the rain arrived. Sadly, the stretch from Beadnell to Seahouses is a long tarmac plod alongside a busy road. I was sorely tempted to stick out my thumb and ask for a lift. I didn't and instead fought my way against the gale and face-on rain until I arrived in Seahouses, where I collapsed in a seaside pub and watched the rain beat against the windows. 

After psyching myself up, I did the last push from Seahouses to Bamburgh, which veers away from the sea and crosses fields, which included a field of bullocks. Sigh. The adrenalin got me across that field and views of Bamburgh Castle gave me my point of reference to work towards. I could have walked along the beach if I'd wanted to - and you could do this although it is not technically the coast path route. I didn't because walking on sand is very tiring and the wind was so fierce, the sand would have taken the top layer of skin off my face, and I was looking haggard enough.

Anyway, after reviving myself at the Victoria Hotel, I headed out in flip flops to air my feet and strolled around the beach near the castle. If you've never visited Bamburgh Castle, add it to your list. It looks exactly like a castle from story books and you couldn't get a better setting.

​Once my feet were frozen lumps of ice, i headed back and had a large glass or two of wine. 

If I'm completely honest, you could probably just do those first three days to get the highlights of the Northumberland Coast Path as day 4 was a bit 'meh'. Technically I should have gone all the way to Holy Island to see Lindisfarne castle but the way the available accommodation worked out, it wasn't an option for me. Plus, if you go to Lindisfarne, you have to time it right to ensure you can walk across the causeway before the tide rolls in, otherwise you will find yourself having a swim instead of a walk.

I didn't have to worry about that, I simply had to walk 14 miles. The wind and rain of the last two days had been replaced with blazing sunshine. Glorious. Except today was a hilly day, inland, not much shade....did I mention the wine from the night before? 

It starts off beautifully with views back towards Bamburgh Castle before taking in the stunning Budle Bay. Lovely. And then after climbing a hill, do a bit of road walking, pick up St Oswald;s way, you arrive at an intercity railway line that you have to cross. That's exciting! There's a telephone you have to use to call the signalman. He'll want to know how many are in your party and how long you estimate it will take you to cross the line. He then lets you know how long you've got before the next train comes barrelling along at 100 miles an hour. Despite having five minutes to make a 30 second journey, it still makes your heart thump. Luckily I'd had a little rest in a grassy field just before this, watching the butterflies flutter about while I aired my feet and rehydrated my body.

After the railway line excitement, you walk past weird, slightly spooky silos before reaching the village of Belford. Here I stocked up on a nutritious lunch of a scotch egg and can of soda from the Coop, before continuing on. After the beauty of the coastline, this all felt a big dull until getting to some woods, which were both pretty and cool respite from the sun. 

Out the other side of the woods is a tiny village called Fenwick, which had I been going to Lindisfarne, i would have passed through, crossed the A1 and headed off on my pilgrimage like so many other pilgrims before me. But alas, the only accommodation I could find was in West Mains, which meant a trudge along a tarmac road, another interesting crossing (this time the busy A1) and then at last found my accommodation at the Lindisfarne Inn.  This was definitely my least favourite day on the walk. 

Another gloriously sunny day and I was up and out early. Despite tired legs and feet, I was ready to take on the last day of this walk. From West Mains, I dropped down to the coast line, picking up the coast path again at Beal Point, looking out over the causeway to Holy Island. From there it is a straight forward, relatively flat, easy walking stretch of beautiful coastline. I even managed to get an ice cream from a van along the way. Perfection!

I arrived into Berwick-on-Tweed way too early for my departing train, so I stopped on the promenade for some obligatory chips. Sitting with my boots off, my feet in the sea breeze, eating hot chips and smelling the sea air, I mentally high-fived myself for doing the 70 miles. What a lovely, leisurely (at times tiring) but beautiful walk. There is something about coastal walking that just releases tension, letting all your worries blow out to sea. 

I reluctantly put my boots on, headed across the old bridge into the town, taking in the views from the old Elizabethan walls that prevented the Scots from invading the town, a nice extra bit of history before finally catching my train back to York. 

In contrast to some of the more remote and hilly long distance paths, the Northumberland Coast Path is relatively easy. That said, 70 miles is still 70 miles and lots of it is on sand, some pebbles and some roadside, so don't underestimate it. But the incredible beaches and fairytale castles will keep you going. I highly recommend it!

​And if you're looking for company to do it with, join the Glamoraks app or Glamoraks Facebook group and find like-minded women to go walking with. 

I would never consider myself a brave person. I'm scared of heights and cows and caterpillars. I don't do scary rollercoasters, go in confined spaces or jump off high things. 

But I have decided that I want to take on a challenge that scares me. Many people will think I am insane for considering it. Others might shrug and think it's not that scary. I'm not doing this to compare my adventure ability with anyone else. I'm doing it to prove to myself that I can. (And to give me the content for a book, which I want to write.)

I have set myself a goal to not only do this adventure, but have written the book and become a speaker about how to challenge yourself by the end of of next year. And unless you set big, scary audacious goals and tell people about them, life will just stay the same. I'm tired of waiting for a magic wand. I'm making my own magic.

My plan:
To walk the Cape Wrath Trail. On my own. April/May 2018.

The Cape Wrath Trail is considered the UK's toughest long distance walk. It's not the longest. In fact it's only 200 - 250 miles. The reason the mileage is approximate is because there is not an actual trail. There is no lovely way marked footpath. You have to find your own way from Fort William to Cape Wrath, the most north westerly point in the UK. 

The way goes through some of Scotland's wildest terrain, boggiest ground and most remote areas. It is tough walking where every mile feels double that.

Not only will I have to navigate my way using a map and compass, I will have to carry everything I need on my back. My accommodation will be a tent, wild camping anywhere I can find a not boggy piece of ground. Or staying in very, very remote bothies (little stone huts that provide four walls, a roof and a fireplace, with little more.) I will have to carry my own food - there are not many places to restock en route. Access to water will be less of an issue, but will require purifying. Staying dry will be a major challenge. In fact, I can expect to have wet feet for the 20 (to 30) days it will take me (depending on how lost I get).

If I go too early, there will be too much snow/cold. If I go too late, there will be too many midges. If I go from August onwards, I'll come across deer stalkers doing a deer cull. And when I get to Cape Wrath I will need to ring the MOD to find out if they are practicing live drills or dropping real bombs. They typically do this in April.

Upon reaching Cape Wrath, when you are supposedly done, there is a long slog over bogs to reach a tiny ferry, which may or may not be running depending on the weather and the sobriety of the skipper. Once across the Kyle of Durness, I will need to get back home. There is a very limited bus service. 

I have walked 192 miles during the coast to coast. But I have never carried my kit on my back (except for one 1 mile walk to a wild camp). I have wild camped on my own once, close to home in sight of humanity. 

This walk will require massive physical, mental and emotional endurance. Getting lost, running out of food and crossing rivers are the three big challenges (the rivers can be particularly dangerous if in spate). I expect to cry a lot. 

But I want to know that I can find my way in the wilderness. And I want to embrace the solitude and amazing views. I think everyone needs to test their endurance at some point in their life. I've done other challenges, but nothing on my own. And frankly, why start small? If you're going to go solo, go REALLY solo to one of the last remaining wild spaces in the UK.  In the words of Rafiki from Lion King, 'It is time.'

My husband has kindly agreed to me doing this and some how I'll sort out childcare cover. I will take a satellite emergency tracker so that should I get into real trouble I can call the rescue team and so that my path can be plotted at all times.

I have booked myself into a Mountain Navigation Skills course for November and will have my silver certificate by the time I go, with possible additional training should I feel I need it. Plus I will be doing practice walks in boggy ground carrying a heavy pack. I do not want to have to call the emergency services unless absolutely necessary so I won't be going into this ill prepared.

I know that for many women, the thought of being alone in a bothy with strange men who happen to also be there may seem dangerous. But it is highly unlikely that people walking that trail are the type to go raping and murdering. I doubt they'd have the energy!

I have applied for an adventure grant (fingers crossed) to cover the costs and have got in touch with a mad man who has run it in 8 days, getting tips and advice from him. I have the maps and guide book. 

I AM GOING TO DO THIS EVEN IF IT SCARES THE SHIT OUT OF ME.

There. I said it. No turning back now.

So why should a mother in her forties choose this over having a comfortable bed and a nice holiday with her children in the sun? I do question my own sanity. But I also know that inside me is a secret adventurer. Not a very brave adventurer, but an adventurer all the same. 

Every single time I have pushed myself out of my comfort zone, I come back feeling a little more confident, a little more capable and a little more comfortable in my own skin. As they say, it's only when you get lost that you truly find yourself. 

What's your challenge for 2018?
Please join me in the Glamoraks group on Facebook to share any adventures you may have planned. They don't have to be a multi-day hike through the wilds of Scotland. Just tackling whatever is out of your own comfort zone is enough. Seriously. If you have never put on a pair of hiking boots and even walked a mile, make that your challenge. This is not a competitor sport. It's not about who has gone the furthest or done the toughest thing, it's about pushing your own personal levels of comfort so that you can discover just how remarkable you are. And trust me, you are remarkable. You just need to realise it.